Cartier, a renowned luxury goods conglomerate, is primarily recognized as a jewellery brand, yet its achievements in watchmaking are undeniably distinct and appeal to a broad spectrum of consumers and enthusiasts alike. This is underscored by Morgan Stanley’s 2022 report, which places Cartier as the second highest in estimated revenue, trailing only Rolex – a testament to its significant horological impact.
The Cartier Santos: A Deep Dive
Among Cartier’s most iconic models, the Cartier Santos stands out. It holds the historical distinction of being the first wristwatch ever produced for men, maintaining its position as a sporty cornerstone of the collection. There has been a palpable resurgence of interest in Cartier watches, particularly the Santos, in recent years. This exploration delves into the Santos de Cartier, examining how it has attained its esteemed status within the watch community, and considering potential areas for improvement.
While not a traditional sports watch, the question arises: should it be considered over alternatives from industry giants like Rolex and Omega? For simplicity, “Santos” will refer to the Santos de Cartier throughout this discussion, with other models like the Santos Dumont or Santos Galbée specified if referenced.
Brief History
The Cartier Santos boasts a rich and extensive history that enhances appreciation for its timeless design. Its origin traces back to 1904 in Paris, where Louis Cartier, grandson of the founder, managed the Cartier branch. A close friend, the Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, faced a practical challenge: checking his pocket watch during flight was cumbersome. This inconvenience led him to Louis Cartier, requesting a more convenient wristwatch. Cartier responded by designing a watch with a leather strap to be worn on the wrist, freeing Santos-Dumont’s hands from the aircraft’s controls.
Thus, the Santos was born, marking the birth of both the pilot’s watch and, notably, the wristwatch for men. Its initial aesthetics, featuring a square bezel, white dial, and Roman numerals, largely aligned with the Santos’s recognizable design today. Santos-Dumont enthusiastically adopted the watch for all his subsequent tests. Its broader recognition came in 1906 when Santos-Dumont achieved the historic feat of being the first person filmed flying an aircraft. His widespread fame across Europe drew media attention, and people quickly noticed the distinctive timepiece on his wrist.
Despite the intrigue, a general public release wasn’t immediate. This occurred five years later, in 1911, through a collaboration with Edmond Jaeger, a movement maker who later became part of Jaeger-LeCoultre. The watch, offered in a 25mm x 35mm platinum or gold case, notably featured the first-ever folding clasp. The societal landscape and watch industry underwent significant shifts with the onset of World War I, but the Cartier Santos endured.
Cartier continued to produce numerous Santos references. A significant evolution arrived in the 1970s, a period defined by the “Quartz Crisis” and the emergence of luxury stainless steel sports watches, particularly those designed by Gérald Genta (e.g., the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak). Recognizing the trend of luxury watches in stainless steel with integrated bracelets, Cartier rebranded the Santos as the Santos de Cartier. This update saw the Santos fitted with a bracelet and a bezel secured with screws, initially offered in two-tone, followed shortly by a full stainless steel version. These changes cemented the model’s modern identity, with its popularity surging in the 1980s, especially for the two-tone variant.
The Modern Santos (2018 onwards)
While countless references and variations appeared between the 1970s and the present, the most recent significant update came in 2018. Cartier replaced the Santos 100 (launched in 2004) with an entirely new collection. This comprehensive refresh included multiple sizes in stainless steel, two-tone, and gold (rose and yellow), as well as skeleton dials. Subsequent additions have expanded the collection to include chronographs, new dial colours (blue and green), and ADLC/PVD bezels.
Given the deeply ingrained design framework of the 1904 Cartier Santos, producing a wholly new collection within these confines is a remarkable achievement. This latest collection is widely regarded as a significant success, offering updates that subtly recall its 1970s integrated bracelet roots while aligning with contemporary watch trends.
Case
The case is central to the Cartier Santos’s identity. The modern collection offers medium and large sizes, with an extra-large for chronograph references. Square watches present a unique challenge for traditional sizing discussions. For reference, the medium case measures 35.1mm x 41.9mm, and the large is 39.8mm x 47.5mm. Both are notably thin, with thicknesses of 8.83mm (medium) and 9.08mm (large).
A 35.1mm case diameter might sound small, but square watches wear larger than their linear dimensions suggest. The medium Santos, for instance, has a wrist presence akin to a 36-37mm round watch, with a similar relative increase for the large. A dedicated measurement system for square watches would undoubtedly aid in conveying wrist presence from specifications.
The Santos boasts 100m water resistance despite lacking a screw-down crown, a feature that solidifies its “sports watch” status and brings it into line with competitors like the Rolex Datejust.
A key aspect of the 2018 update is the increased curvature applied to the traditionally square design. This is first evident in the case shape itself, where the lugs are more pronounced, creating a fluid transition into the bracelet. The crown guards have also been redesigned; in contrast to the straighter, more protruding guards of the previous Santos 100, the new collection features shorter, more subtly waved crown guards that blend seamlessly into the case.
While these changes alone would have lent the watch a more elegant feel, Cartier went further. The bezel, once an undeniably stark square, now extends gracefully down into the lugs. These collective modifications impart a softer, more integrated appearance to the watch. The bezel features a polished finish, which, while visually striking, is notoriously prone to scratches – a point of contention for some owners. The remainder of the case incorporates a sophisticated mix of polished and brushed surfaces, adding depth. The top surface of the case, directly beneath the bezel, is brushed, creating a sense of the dial being securely encased and lending the watch a solid feel. Overall, these design revisions transform the watch from a purely square design into a more integrated aesthetic.
Finally, the case maintains a subtle curve in its side profile, a characteristic not new to this collection. This curvature prevents the watch from sitting flat on the wrist, enhancing its perceived unity with the bracelet and ultimately contributing to superior comfort. The sapphire crystal also shares this curve, introducing a pleasing optical distortion to the dial when viewed at an angle.
Bracelet
Though introduced only in the 1970s, the bracelet has become an iconic feature of the Cartier Santos. Its straight links contribute to the angular aesthetic of the watch, yet each link is subtly domed, creating a supple feel. This subtle doming also generates interesting visual play with light, despite the bracelet’s fully brushed surface.
The defining characteristic of the bracelet is the presence of screws on every link, a direct callback to Cartier’s jewellery design language. Each screw is polished, and in the two-tone models, they are rendered in gold, set against the stainless steel links, offering a unique take on two-tone execution. While the misaligned screws (similar to the bezel) might initially seem like an oversight or a minor irritant, this intentional “disorder” contrasts effectively with the overall rigidity and linearity of the watch, a design choice that has grown on many enthusiasts. The bracelet also features a graceful taper from the case down to the butterfly clasp.
What truly sets the latest Santos iteration apart is the innovative technology integrated into the bracelet: Cartier’s proprietary SmartLink and QuickSwitch systems. These make the bracelet one of the most user-friendly on the market.
- SmartLink allows for tool-free bracelet length adjustment. Small, easily pressable buttons on each link release the pin (without fully detaching it, preventing loss), enabling quick link removal. This negates the need for micro-adjustment on the clasp, as sizing can be done effortlessly.
- The QuickSwitch system offers a similar level of convenience for strap changes. A button located between the lugs can be pressed to release the bracelet, allowing a leather or rubber strap to be clicked into place in a matter of seconds, again without any tools.
Such user-centric design innovations prompt one to wonder why similar systems aren’t more widely adopted across the watch industry. Cartier’s achievement in this area is truly commendable.
Dial
The dial of the modern Santos largely retains the familiar and beloved aesthetic of previous models, exuding an Art Deco charm that imbues the watch with elegance. Focusing on the traditional white dial variant (though subtle differences exist with coloured dials), its appearance is deceptively straightforward: a white dial with black Roman numerals.
Upon closer inspection, the dial reveals a similar attention to detail as the rest of the watch. The dial printing is a deep, almost inky black. While printed, the Roman numeral indices possess a subtle, almost imperceptible raised quality that becomes apparent under certain lighting conditions. The iconic Cartier “secret signature” is subtly integrated into the 7 o’clock Roman numeral (though this feature is absent on darker dial options). Moving inwards, a minute track circles the dial, positioned inside the hour indices. Interestingly, the minute hand extends slightly beyond the minute track, which, while perhaps not strictly practical for precise setting, contributes to the dial’s overall balance and aesthetic appeal.
Wearability
A watch’s appeal extends beyond its heritage and aesthetics; its comfort on the wrist is paramount. The Cartier Santos consistently proves to be exceptionally comfortable. Given its availability in various sizes, there’s likely an option to fit most wrists. The bracelet’s solidity, with minimal gaps between links and a refined finish, makes it feel almost like a soft leather band. The thin case sits gracefully on the wrist, and the case’s curvature creates a cohesive feel with the bracelet. Cartier’s extensive background in jewellery is clearly evident in the bracelet’s ergonomic design and luxurious feel, rivalled only by bracelets from brands like Rolex in terms of comfort.
Beyond physical comfort, wearing a Cartier Santos evokes a sense of occasion. It possesses an iconic status, rich history, and instantly recognizable design that commands appreciation, even for those whose personal style might lean differently. This initial sense of significance, akin to experiencing a Rolex Submariner for the first time, gradually gives way to the watch subtly disappearing on the wrist. Its thin profile allows it to slide effortlessly under a cuff, and the bracelet’s comfort makes it feel like a seamless extension of the wearer.
Improvements
No watch is without room for improvement, and the Cartier Santos is no exception. Two primary areas where enhancements could be made are the movement and the bezel.
- Movement: The Cartier Santos currently uses the 1847 MC caliber, introduced by Cartier in 2015. This is a non-magnetic in-house automatic movement with a 42-hour power reserve, a solid 4Hz frequency, and an accuracy of -3/+7 seconds per day. While there’s nothing inherently wrong with this movement, its finishing is minimal (though concealed by a solid caseback), and it lacks a “special” quality. While day-to-day functionality isn’t significantly impacted, as prices for luxury watches continue to rise, and competitors like Oris, Tudor, and direct rivals such as Rolex, Omega, and Zenith push the boundaries of movement capabilities (e.g., longer power reserves, enhanced accuracy, advanced anti-magnetism), the 1847 MC could benefit from an upgrade to better align with the segment.
- Bezel: The polished bezel of the Cartier Santos, a defining feature and a key factor in the author’s increased appreciation for the watch, is undeniably a scratch magnet. While some view these scratches as a form of patina that adds character and tells the watch’s story, for the majority who prefer their watches pristine, this is a notable drawback. Cartier has introduced some references since 2018 with ADLC and PVD coatings that feature a brushed finish, offering a more wear-resistant alternative, but these are currently limited to the large case sizes. There’s a desire to see similar brushed bezel options, perhaps with bevelled edges for enhanced integration, extended to the medium-sized models, which would further bolster its “sports watch” appeal.
Why Go for a Santos Over a Rolex or Omega?
Should the Cartier Santos be considered for your collection, especially against sports watches from Rolex (e.g., Datejust) or Omega (e.g., Aqua Terra) in a similar price range? The answer is a resounding yes, though personal aesthetic preference is key. Experiencing the Santos at an authorised dealer is highly recommended, as its wrist presence and updated features often change perceptions.
The Santos’s specifications and design legitimately position it as a sports watch capable of competing with these heavyweights. What sets the Santos apart?
- Abundant Heritage: It holds the historical distinction of being the first wristwatch for men and the first pilot’s watch.
- Timeless, Versatile Design: Its design masterfully blends elegance (Art Deco dial, seven-sided crown with a synthetic spinel) with an industrial edge (exposed screws, integrated bracelet). This duality makes it exceptionally versatile, transitioning effortlessly between bracelet, leather, or rubber straps, and fitting both formal and informal settings.
- Integrated Aesthetic (Overlooked): The 2018 update, with its softened bezel that flows into the lugs and bracelet, creates a cohesive, integrated look. In an industry currently obsessed with integrated sports watches, the Santos’s unique, original integrated design is arguably being overlooked. While it retains a squarer form than the Royal Oak-inspired designs currently dominating the hype cycle, it offers a distinct yet similarly integrated feel to newer models like the Zenith Defy or Chopard Alpine Eagle, without resembling “the obvious.”
- Jewellery Sensibility: The curved case with its mixed polished and brushed finishes gives the watch a jewelled quality, almost an extension of Cartier’s renowned jewellery lines. This unique blend of watchmaking and jewellery design can even make the Santos seem like a good value when considering the price points of Cartier’s other luxury items.
This dual nature raises a bold question: rather than being compared solely to the Rolex Datejust, could the Santos’s elegance align it more closely with the Rolex Day-Date? While the Day-Date features a complication and different material options and price points, in terms of sheer refinement and dressiness (outside of the new Perpetual 1908), the Santos shares a similar sophisticated aura, making the comparison noteworthy.
Ultimately, the Cartier Santos could serve as a “one-watch collection,” particularly for those whose “outdoor activity” extends primarily to swimming. For navigating a dynamic life of work, dinners, shopping, and social events, its effortless adaptability positions it as the “thinking-person’s sports watch.” It can certainly hold its own against the likes of the Rolex Datejust or Omega Aqua Terra.
Conclusion
The Cartier Santos possesses a long and rich history, with its core design largely intact since its public release in 1911. Traditionally viewed as a more formal, square watch, the 2018 collection update initiated a significant shift. The sharp lines of the case have been softened, with added curvature to the lugs and crown guards, and most notably, a redesigned bezel that now blends seamlessly into the lugs and flows into the bracelet. This imbues the Santos with an integrated aesthetic that aligns it with contemporary watch trends.
In doing so, it successfully retains and builds upon its inherent ability to balance elegance and sportiness, enhancing its overall versatility. Its robust specifications, including 100m water resistance, and the highly user-friendly QuickSwitch and SmartLink bracelet systems, coupled with attractive (thin) dimensions, further solidify its appeal. While there remains room for improvement, particularly regarding the movement and the polished bezel’s susceptibility to scratches, the Cartier Santos as it stands today could well be considered the “thinking-person’s sports watch.” Its surprising comfort and distinctive presence have undeniably elevated its position on many watch enthusiasts’ wish lists.